1988 Pierre Barge Côte-Rôtie

Pierre Barge, now retired, ran a nice little domaine just off the main drag in Ampuis. His son, Gilles, is currently President of the grower’s association. Papa Pierre made a very traditionally styled CR, and the ’88 is very typical of his work in a good vintage. The family holdings are scattered around the appellation, with about a 50:50 Brune-Blonde mix. Minimal new oak, bien sur. The ’88 is perfectly mature now, no need to hold further. Always a bit volatile, it remains medium-bodied and elegant with more than a dash of the signature CR bacon fat. It finishes nicely. A fine blast of the past, a disappearing world in the Northern Rhône as new oak, cold soaks, and full destemming metastasize through the younger generation of producers.

SY (4/99)