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We went nuts over the Brussels sprouts served at Lulu’s. This is a stovetop variation that is a little more intense. Serves four as a side dish.

1 – 1 ½ lbs – Brussels sprouts (you want the small, hard ones)
2-3 tbsp – Olive oil
2 tbsp – Balsamic vinegar
¼ cup – butter
½ cup – chopped pecans

Trim off the outer leaves of the Brussels sprouts.

In a heavy pan (cast iron works very well), sauté the sprouts on medium-high heat in olive oil until they start to brown. Add the balsamic vinegar, turn the heat to low and cover.

After a couple of minutes, add ¼ cup of water. Cook until the sprouts start to soften, ~ 8-10 minutes. They should brown but not burn. Turn the heat back up to high, add the butter and the pecans. Saute for a minute or so, until the pecans are lightly toasted.

Add salt and pepper to taste, and serve.

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15-20 dried morels
2 large or three medium shallots, finely diced
1-2 tbs butter
1 tbs olive oil
1 tbs Dijon mustard
1/4 c. red wine (my favorite is a bretty Rhône)
1/4 c. soaking liquid or stock
2 tbs brown roux
2 pinches dried thyme
2 tbs creme fraiche (optional: normal cream)
4 puff pastry shells
3 tbs chopped Italian parsley
salt and pepper

Soak, drain, and rinse (if necessary) the morels. Reserve the soaking liquid. Start baking the puff-pastry according to directions (the Pepperidge Farm shells work fine if you’re not inclined to make your own).

Add the olive oil and butter to a medium-hot pan. After the butter foams, then collapses, sautee the shallots until they are translucent. Toss the morels in, then continue sauteeing until the morels are thoroughly cooked and the shallots are barely beginning to brown. Deglaze with the wine and the soaking liquid. Reduce slightly, then stir in the mustard, thyme, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Cook for another minute or two, then quickly stir in the roux. Reduce the heat to medium-low, and continue stirring until the gravy thickens. Add 1 tbs of the parsley, then add the creme fraiche with continuous stirring. Remove from heat, adjust salt and pepper to taste.

Take the center cap off the baked puff pastry shells, hollow them out, then spoon in the morels with sauce. Sprinkle with the remaining chopped parsley, then put the caps back on. Serve with big reds.

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We think this is one of the best damned risotto dishes we’ve ever had. It’s very rich. Serves four as a first course.

1 small yellow onion, diced fairly fine
1 cup Arborio rice
2-3 tbsp of good olive oil
1/2 cup white wine
5 cups vegetable stock
1 big pinch of saffron
1/2-1 oz of dried morels
2 tbsp. fresh chopped Italian parsley, with extra for garnish
1-2 tbsp butter, or high quality extra virgin olive oil (optional)
1/4 cup freshly grated Reggiano parmesan, plus extra for garnishing
Salt and pepper

Soak the morels in 1 cup of hot water until soft (~ 20 minutes). Squeeze the morels dry and cut in half lengthwise. Run them very well under running water. Strain the soaking liquid through a double layer of cheesecloth and a strainer, or through a coffee filter and set aside.

The stock needs to be in a separate pot on the stove at a strong simmer (A note on canned stocks, they can be awfully salty and can even impart a metallic taste to your dish. We usually cut it one to one with water). You’ll need a ladle to add the stock with and a strong spoon to stir the risotto with. The pot for the risotto needs to be large (5 quart will work well) and as heavy as possible. An enameled Le Crueset pot works very well, as will most heavy stock pots.

Sweat the onions in the olive oil over medium high heat until translucent, about 5-8 minutes. Don’t let them brown. Add the rice and morels and continue to stir for a couple of minutes.

At this point, add the wine and stir the rice. As the liquid is absorbed and the rice stops sticking to the side of the pot, add the reserved mushroom soaking water. At the same time, add the saffron. Continue stirring, adding stock as needed. As the rice gets closer to being done, the liquid will not absorb as quickly, so you will need to decrease the amount you put in each time. After 18-20 minutes, taste the rice for doneness. It should be al dente but not crunchy and not mushy. If it’s not done, cook it a couple of minutes longer and test it again. If it’s mushy, better luck next time.

At the point it reaches al dente, stir in the butter (optional), parsley, and parmesan, and adjust the seasoning. You won’t need very much pepper, if any. The rice should be smooth and creamy without being soupy or clumpy. Serve it up and top it with the reserved cheese and a little more parsley.

If you’ve got some old red wines that have some mushroomy earthiness to them, this is the dish you want. We’ve had it with old bordeaux (St. Emilion to be exact) and found it to be a flawless match. An old cabernet or Meritage such as Joseph Phelps Insignia will also work well. We plan on giving it a spin with an old Rioja too.

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