There’s nothing like asparagus grilled in a wood-burning oven. And a wine pairing recommended to me was Austrian Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder). Our example of the night was the ‘00 Zöch Weissburgunder Haugsdorf from the lesser-known Weinviertel region, which lies between Vienna and the Czech border. The first impression is BIG, I mean really, really BIG. The richness belies the 12.5% alcohol, and is certainly not from a lack of acidity. Flavors of earth and roasted marshmallow predominate. I’d never guess this to be a cousin of the ract Pinot Blancs of Austria, though there is something of a resemblance to, say, the Morey blanc from Ponsot. The Zöch is not at all intimidated by the asparagus- it bitch-slaps it into submission and brings out the sweet smokiness of Charles’s prep.
SY (4/02)